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Henna (Mehndi) is a dye prepared from the plant Lawsonia inermis.
Henna can also refer to the temporary body art resulting from the staining of the skin from the dyes (see also mehndi). Henna has been used since antiquity to dye skin, hair and fingernails, as well as fabrics including silk, wool and leather. Historically, henna was used in the Arabian Peninsula, Indian subcontinent, Near and Middle East, Carthage, other parts of North Africa and the Horn of Africa.
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The dry powder is mixed with one of a number of liquids, including water, lemon juice, strong tea, and other ingredients, depending on the tradition. Many artists use sugar or molasses in the paste to improve consistency in order to prevent henna paste seeping out of the hair and down the neck/face. The henna mix must rest between one and 48 hours before use in order to release the lawsone from the leaf matter. The timing depends on the crop of henna being used. And also using hot water drastically reduces the time it takes to release the lawsone dye. Essential oils with high levels of monoterpene alcohols, such as tea tree, cajuput, or lavender, will improve hair stain characteristics. Other essential oils, such as eucalyptus and clove, are also useful but are too irritating and should not be used on the skin.
Henna stains are orange when the paste is first removed, but darken over the following three days to a deep reddish brown due to oxidation.
Natural henna pastes containing only henna powder, a liquid (water, lemon juice, etc.) and an essential oil (lavender, cajuput, tea tree etc.) are not "shelf stable," meaning they expire quickly, and cannot be left out on a shelf for over one week without losing their ability to stain the skin.
The leaf of the henna plant contains a finite amount of lawsone molecule. As a result, once the powder has been mixed into a paste, this leaching of dye molecule into the mixture will only occur for an average of two to six days. If a paste will not be used within the first few days after mixing, it can be frozen for up to four months to halt the dye release, for thawing and use at a later time. Commercially packaged pastes that remain able to stain the skin longer than seven days without refrigeration or freezing contain other chemicals besides henna that may be dangerous to the skin. After the initial seven-day release of lawsone dye, the henna leaf is spent
Freezing the henna mixture greatly strengthens the dye stain.
Strand Test
“First, I lined up many hairs from my hairball root to tip. Then I looped them (essentially doubling up the thickness of the test strand). I made several this way. Then I mixed a small amount of powder with water, waited for dye release, and dyed my test strands while keeping them in a plastic baggy in my pocket (the effect of body heat and all). After rinsing, I waited a few days to see the oxidization process.
I know its a bother and takes a while, but henna is permanent, and you want to make sure you're getting results at least close to what you want. =)”
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Image Attribution
Dinesh Valke from Thane, India / CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Mokkie / CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
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