Process of Making Traditional Ithmid Surma Eyeliner

Published: 05 August 2020
on channel: Raqib Zaman
48,798
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In this video, I will show you how to make traditional ithmid eyeliner that was (and still is) used around the world, such as by the Bedouins and Ancient Egyptians. You can read about the process and more here: https://www.therevisionist.org/review...
And you can get authentic ithmid to use here: https://realithmidkohl.com/product/ge...
This is the Steel Mortar and Pestle I used: https://amzn.to/3i1uZbk
Ithmid was mentioned by the Prophet Muhammad, and even in the texts of the Old Testament. This ancient eyeliner has many different names & spellings, such as surma, shurma, surmah, kajal, kohl, kuhl, kahal, ithmid, ismid, mestem, stibbi, stimmi, stibium, collyrium, Kollurion, Anjan,

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Here's an excerpt from: Kohl: an ophthalmic dosage form in Persian medicine, 1555 to 1853: Source: https://www.ingentaconnect.com/conten...

Kohl: description and historical background

Kohl has been defined as a dry eye ultra-fine powder
encompassing one or more ingredients – such as lead
sulphide, gemstones, minerals and herbs – that were
used in the eyes or on the eyelids by means of an eye
stick.15, 16 According to the Qarābādin books the inventor
of kohl was Hippocrates. But historical evidence
shows that the use of kohl goes back to the Bronze Age, around 1100-3500 BC.18 Historical documents illustrate
the application of eyeliner around the eyelids in
ancient Egyptians for its protective effect against the
glare of the sun. From the grave paintings of the Old
Kingdom (The Age of Pyramids, 2900-2240 BC) to the
surprising portraits of the Roman Occupation, kohl
recipes were transferred from one generation to another
over the centuries.20, 21 Kohl was one of the ophthalmic
pharmaceutical preparations applied in Persia at least
from 500 BC.22

There were two categories of kohl mentioned in
Qarābādins; one category contained Ithmid (or Ismad)
as its main component, while the other did not. Ithmid
was composed only of galena (lead sulphide) that was
found in a lead mineral in Isfahan (a province and city
in the centre of Iran) where it was called Ithmid-e-Isfahani
(or Surma-e- Isfahani).

In addition to Surma stone or Ithmid, other medicinally
active ingredients such as gemstones (ruby,
garnet, emerald, turquoise, opal), marine coelenterates
(coral, pearls), minerals (gold, silver, zinc oxide, copper
oxide, plumbum oxidum), and medicinal herbs
(Foeniculum vulgare Mill. extract, Crocus sativus L., Piper
longum L., Piper nigrum L., and Chelidonium majus
L.) were used in kohl formulations.
Some special ingredients such as musk were blended
with the chief components to give it a particular indemnity
and to help identify the supplier. Musk deer
(Moschus spp.) was a form of animal medicine that was
an important component of Persian medicine. Its antihistaminic
and anti-inflammatory activities are reported
in animal models.

Considerations in formulating kohl preparations

Ingredients used in kohl dosage forms needed to be
completely milled and passed through the finest sieves.
Reduction of particle size was required to prevent probable
injuries to the eye and to facilitate the penetration
of remedies deep into the eye. They should have been
dried in the shade and protected from excessive water
and dust. Minerals, stones and sea shells required particular
modifications or processing (a process named
Tadabir). This might entail a decrease in particle size,
in burning (Ehragh) or washing (Taghsil).29 Burning of
the ingredients was a method of reducing their particle
size and also of preventing bacterial growth and contamination.
30 In several cases the components were exposed
to fire and not burnt completely.

In the washing process the materials should have
been completely immersed in a liquid; the sediment created
was then separated from the liquid phase above
and dried. If necessary this process was repeated a few
times. To prolong its shelf life, to maximize its effectiveness,
and to prevent the penetration of air the kohl
formulation was kept in a glass container and was tightly
sealed with wax. Kohl was used in the eyes or eyelids
and administered by means of an eye stick. The
material used to make the eye stick varied according to
the ophthalmic disease being treated. It was commonly
made from gold, silver, lead or a very soft barberry
root.


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