How to grow bare root roses

Опубликовано: 25 Сентябрь 2021
на канале: Gardening - Plant Farm Eat
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How to grow roses (Site, Types, Soil, Planting, Care)
‪@PlantFarmEat‬

Site Selection

The best site would be an area that gets full sun with good air circulation. In windy sites, protect the roses from the prevailing wind.

A good second choice is a location that gets full sun during the early morning hours. This might be on the east side of buildings or an area that is shaded by trees in the afternoon. Locate the plants so they receive a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of sunshine. The early sunshine will dry dew off plants and help prevent diseases.

When choosing a location, avoid places where the roses have to compete with tree or shrub roots for water and nutrients. Good drainage is also a factor in site selection.

Types

There are many types of garden roses. Most popular are tea roses, hybrid teas, hybrid perpetuals, floribundas, polyanthas, miniatures, and climbers. Of these, the hybrid teas and floribundas are grown most often.

Planting Bare Root Roses

For bare root roses, spring planting is preferred over fall. It’s best to finish planting bare root roses by mid-April.

Dig the hole to accommodate the root system, usually about 18-24 inches in diameter and 14-18 inches deep. If the soil is compacted or needs improving, the planting hole may be as large as 36 inches in diameter and 18 inches deep. If the subsoil in the bottom of the planting hole or rose bed is heavy clay, it may be desirable to replace a portion of this subsoil with peat moss or compost.

Excessively long roots may be shortened, but leave 8 to 10 inches of healthy root if possible.

Support the plant by placing it on a small mound of amended soil, spreading the roots out into the planting hole. Budded roses need to be planted so that the bud union is 3 to 4 inches below ground level. Own root roses need to be planted 2 inches below ground level. It is important to water deeply at this time, but do not puddle the soil as this tends to separate the soil components.

Planting Potted Roses

Potted roses can be planted during the growing season, any time after the last killing frost. If a potted rose is purchased directly from a greenhouse, then harden off the rose outdoors for 3-4 days prior to planting, watering it daily.

If planting late in the season, the plant should have time to become well established in its new location before the first killing frost. Prepare the planting hole much the same as for bare root roses, with the depth determined by the height of the bud union from the bottom of the container. Carefully remove the plant from the container and place it in the hole without disturbing the root ball.

Make sure the bud union is planted 2-4” below ground level. Fill in around the root ball with soil. If the rose roots are pot bound, break up the root ball with your hands or gently slice the roots with a sharp knife. Not correcting circling roots can be detrimental to your rose long-term. Water newly planted roses every day for three days; then twice a week for two weeks. Then begin deep watering once a week.

Watering

Once the plant is established the most active roots will be under the tips of the branches. Irrigate around the perimeter of the plant rather than at the base of the stem.

When irrigating, wet the soil to the full extent of the root zone, approximately two feet deep. Do not add water again until the surface of the soil becomes dry. Irrigation should take place when the soil moisture is at the point where the leaves begin to wilt. An inch of water in sandy soils should wet the soil a depth of about 12 inches; in loams, 6 to 10 inches; in clay soils, 4 to 5 inches. Sandy soils do not retain moisture very long and must be irrigated every 4 to 10 days during the growing season. Loam soils retain more moisture than sandy soils, and may need irrigating every 8 to 15 days. Clay soils have high water-holding capacities and may need to be irrigated only every 15 to 30 days.

Proper pruning of rose canes

Make the pruning cuts at a 30 to 45 degree angle, ¼ to 3/8 inch above a bud eye, leaving about 5 to 12 inches of the cane. In order to keep the center of the plant open for better air circulation and light penetration, these cuts should usually be made to an outward facing bud eye.

Next, cover the entire plant with loose, loamy, moist soil or a mix of compost and soil, or mulch. This will keep the canes from drying out while the root system is being established and will protect the plant from possible frost damage.

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