The TRUE Cost of Bespoke Tailoring w/ Savile Row Cutter, Matthew Gonzalez | Off the Cuff
Matthew Gonzalez shares the real costs behind bespoke tailoring: https://gentl.mn/true-cost-bespoke-ma...
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Arterton London: https://arterton.co.uk/ & / arterton.london
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00:00 The REAL Cost of Bespoke Tailoring Introduction
England is synonymous with exquisite tailoring, but what’s the real reason why bespoke suits are so expensive? We’re joined by London’s only bespoke tailor from America, Matthew Gonzalez.
00:33 Get To Know Matthew Gonzalez
Originally from Long Beach, California. Matthew studied fashion in Orange County, moved to London when he was 21, and started tailoring career from there.
To Matthew's knowledge, he is the first (and so far, only) American cutter to work on Savile Row.
02:48 Misconceptions Around Bespoke
People tend to view ready-to-wear prices against bespoke prices, and there’s this juxtaposition of “Wow, bespoke is expensive.”
It is expensive. I don’t think there’s any person who could reasonably argue that bespoke isn’t expensive compared to the rest of the fashion market. But the question is, is there value within that expense? When you go to a ready-to-wear shop, you are always going to compromise on something—whether it’s material, the working conditions of the people who’ve made it, the quality, or being priced based on design rather than any other physical element of the garment; you are paying a premium for something.
06:33 Examining the Cost of Bespoke
It’s not the style because, as I said, I don’t really do unlined skeleton jobs. That doesn’t have a direct impact on the overall cost. But you can certainly if you are doing a skeleton bespoke jacket, it would cost more just because the price of making will go up by about 50%. It’s incredibly expensive to make.
We have a relatively fixed cost when it comes to the tailors. But when we look at cloth, that’s when we see a variable in price. So if I’m paying X amount per meter, or I’m paying three times that amount per meter, then that’s going to have a direct impact on how much the suit will actually cost at the end of the day.
09:01 Why Bespoke Suits Are Expensive
15:01 The Importance of Cloth Selection
18:00 Customizing a Suit's Style
20:16 Time and Effort of Making Bespoke Suits
25:01 Tailor-Client Relationships
27:58 Bespoke Suits as Family Heirlooms
34:19 Advice for a Bespoke Customer
35:26 Conclusion
#bespoke #interview #menswear
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